Any new fish tank owner must have heard this term at least once while researching. But what exactly is it? Why is it caused? How can it be prevented? Let me break it down for you in simpler terms.
Understanding New Tank Syndrome
New tank syndrome is a problem in new aquariums that have not undergone the process of fish-less tank cycling and proper biological filtration.
Biological filtration refers to the beneficial bacteria in the tank’s system that convert toxic fish waste into safer products. This is done by reducing toxic ammonia and nitrite levels.
Hence, the tank requires the process of “nitrogen cycling,” which can take at least four to six weeks to establish properly. After this process, the tank matures and becomes suitable for new fish and plants.
This syndrome is why many professionals don’t recommend immediately putting the fish in the new tank. Hence, you are told to wait at least 3 to 4 weeks; otherwise, the new tank syndrome occurs (hopefully, now you will be ready to listen).
What is Nitrogen Cycling?
I just mentioned this term above, too, and it holds a lot of relevance.
This process refers to the healthy recycling of ammonia produced by fish and from the substrate with the help of beneficial bacteria. The ammonia is converted into nitrites and then nitrates through a strain of nitrifying bacteria.
Starting Nitrogen Cycling In Your Tank
Yes, this sounds like a long process, but it must be carried out before introducing fish to a new tank so they don’t die of ammonia poisoning, as fish need time to adjust to their environment.
To set up this biological filter, you must start with plants (before adding fish).
The plant will eventually decay slowly, releasing ammonia and starting the overall process of nitrogen cycling.
After a couple of days, you may add a starter fish, and if everything is fine, a FEW more fish can be added.
You must add a few fish slowly and gradually to avoid overwhelming the new filter and causing stress. Otherwise, too many fish will result in a lot of fish waste, which will generate high levels of ammonia. The fish might not be able to cope with the high ammonia levels.
Possible Causes Of New Tank Syndrome
I did give you a gist above about the reason behind the development of the new tank syndrome. However, it is essential to understand the possible reasonings in depth to avoid the syndrome.
Here are the causes that I was able to find:
Lack of Beneficial Bacteria:
One of the primary causes of new tank syndrome is the absence of beneficial bacteria required to establish the nitrogen cycle in the tank water.
Without these beneficial bacteria, ammonia and nitrite produced by fish waste and decaying organic matter starts accumulating in the aquarium. This is the root cause of ammonia poisoning.
Overstocking:
Introducing too many fish into a new aquarium can overwhelm the biological filtration system. Know your fish’s maximum stocking level, and don’t exceed it. Otherwise, there is a high chance that you will increase your tank’s ammonia and nitrite levels, eventually leading to the syndrome.
Overfeeding:
Excessive feeding contributes to elevated ammonia levels in the aquarium as uneaten food decomposes.
This excess organic matter burdens the biological filtration system and hinders stability in the nitrogen cycle.
Diagnosing New Tank Syndrome Through Fish & Tank
You can diagnose that your fish is experiencing a new tank syndrome when it starts to exhibit the following symptoms:
Lethargy
Decreased appetite
Increased slime coat/cloudy appearance
Death
Stressed behavior
Otherwise, tank conditions, water quality, and pH tests can detect new tank syndrome.
Tank Condition: If your fish tank filter is brand new or recently replaced, or if it has been dry or without oxygen for too long, there is a high chance of new tank syndrome.
Water Quality: Tests for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate can be performed (which you can do yourself at home). If the tank had succumbed to the syndrome, the results would show high ammonia, none or minimal nitrite, and no nitrate.
pH Test: A sudden change in the water’s pH can also cause new tank syndrome. With a sudden pH swing, your bacterial colonies will die, causing ammonia buildup. A pH test can confirm this.
Possible Preventions: Avoiding The New Tank Syndrome In Your Tank
Now that you know what new tank syndrome is, we move to the next part: monitoring your water quality and prevent this syndrome. Here is how you can do that.
Fishless Cycling
Consider cycling the aquarium without fish by adding a source of ammonia, such as fish food or a pure ammonia solution.
This method allows beneficial bacteria to colonize the tank and establish the nitrogen cycle without subjecting fish to harmful ammonia and nitrite levels.
Maintain Optimal Filtration
There are three main types of filtration. Your tank should have at least two, but preferably all three: biological, mechanical, and chemical.
Filters often combine all three to create the optimal environment for your fish. Your filter should be able to process anywhere from 5 to 7 times your tank’s volume in an hour.
Gradual Stocking:
Introduce fish to the aquarium gradually, starting with a few hardy species tolerant of fluctuating water parameters.
Proper Feeding Practices:
Feed fish sparingly and remove any uneaten food promptly to prevent excess waste buildup and minimize ammonia production.
A balanced diet and proper feeding schedule help maintain water quality and support the growth of beneficial bacteria without overloading the biological filtration system.
Maintain Water Quality
Filtration alone isn’t enough to maintain water quality. Weekly partial water changes and water quality tests should be done to ensure your aquarium’s parameters are within normal limits. Here are the ideal readings for an adequately established aquarium, mainly focusing on the levels of ammonia and other parameters that fish need.
Ammonia >0.1 mg/L
Nitrite >0 mg/L
Nitrate >20 mg/L
Treatment & Management
Now, let’s just say you weren’t lucky enough, and your fish nonetheless fell prey to the new tank syndrome. Well, here is how you can recover your fish and act as a solver for your tank.
Immediately perform a significant water change of around 30–50%.
Water changes and ammonia tests should be repeatedly performed until ammonia levels are at zero ppm or 0 mg/L (depending on the kit you use). Depending on the size of your aquarium, you might have to change the water every 4–6 hours to keep your fish safe.
Stop feeding your fish temporarily.
If your tank is overstocked, consider reducing the stock size by moving some fish to another tank or switching to a larger tank.
Heavily oxygenate the water using air stones and perform robust filtration.
If your tank’s pH is alkaline (over 7.0) then use a pH balancing product to bring it close to 7.0.
Add the commercial ammonia binders, aquarium salt, and nitrifying bacteria.
Contact your aquatic veterinarian for issues or diseases due to the poisoning, especially if your fish are stressed or show signs of distress.
